June 3, 2012

Four cocktail bars in Copenhagen


My cocktail loving friend and I are very efficient when we test bars. On the first day of summer which was manifesting itself with showers of intense rain and even hail we checked four places out, we had never visited before.

I'll review them in the order we visited them:

Fugu
We got there a little early but found a dry bench to wait out the 10 minutes until official opening. Fugu is a relatively new place, it's in the basement in the oldest part of town on the canal at Gammel Strand.

But for next 4-5 years it won't be able to serve people on the street level as a new metro line means huge construction.

We made out way to the garden in back of the bar - but it was too wet and windy and midway through our first drink we went back inside and found a high table with a view to the bar and some comfortable benches.

We both had an Aztec Punch for out first cocktail of the night. But we didn't get the same cocktail mine was mysteriously without grapefruit juice. It tasted alright and I was in too good a mood to complain.

Next up I had a classic - the Bramble - and now I've written off Creme de Mure as a future purchase - the cocktail was way too sweet for me and the blackberry taste almost jam like. My friend was very happy with her chamomile concoction.

There is nothing wrong with Fugu, it's a perfectly nice bar and all cocktails are well crafted but over all this was the bar that left the least of an expression on me that night.

If you visit say hi to the fugu fish - he looks a lot less poisonous than he is.

K-Bar
I believe the oldest cocktail bar in Copenhagen except for Library Bar at the Plaza Hotel. It's right in the city center not far from Fugu on the canal facing the parliament - and not cut off from view by the high green fence facing Fugu.

For full disclosure: My friend and I are middle aged women and we do not look glamorous or important. That set us apart from the rest of the crowd at K-Bar. The staff did nothing to make us feel inferior in any way - and we didn't - but it's not a place that welcomes you with open arms.

However K-bar served the drink that impressed me the most that evening. A Phi Phi Martini - which as the name implies is a martini with a Thai twist: Gin, coconut syrup, lime juice, kaffir lime, lemon grass, coriander, chili and fresh ginger.

My theory was that the herbs were cooked with coconut water into a syrup, but my friend asked and the bartender told us, that she blended the kaffir lime leaves, the lemon grass, chili, coriander and ginger fresh and then shook it with the rest of the ingredients. Which explained why the Thai tast got stronger as I drank the cocktail. I loved it.

My second drink was a Rosehip Hibiscus magarita - much too sweet for my taste - but I should have know that. My friend loved the house espresso martini.

So overall great drinks and nice staff but K-bar is also the only bar in Copenhagen where I have ever been asked to leave my credit card with the staff when we indicated we wanted more than one drink.

I suppose I could take it as a compliment, but really how did they imagine that two middle aged women, one more than a little round, seated in a window nook with their coats behind them and one backpack between them would sneak unnoticed out?

Gilt
We left the city center and ventured out to Nørrebro which is a neighborhood with a mixture of immigrants, students and young professional families. It used to be the poorest of the neighborhoods around the old town, now there has been a lot of renovation.

Gilt does not announce itself to the world. The facade is closed but a light sign beckons: Udsendelse (it's an old On Air broadcasting sign) - I liked that a lot.

Inside is a dark, warm and very cosy place. Looks like the average Danish living room in the 1960's except for the wood panels on the wall.

Only two guests and one bartender was present when we entered, they had a conversation in Swedish and Norwegian and that was perfect as we studied the Nordic part of the drinks menu.

We settled for a rhubarb/gooseberry interpretation of the Clover Club Cocktail and loved it. It was startlingly pretty and a very well crafted cocktail with a thick foam of egg white. In the darkness we used out fingers to lick out all the goodness of out glasses. Next came another perfect drink: Beets and cherries. This was a mix of white rum, Maraschino, red beet syrup, gooseberries and simple syrup.

It was a gorgeous deep red and had a full and complex taste. To my taste buds the Maraschino overpowered the gooseberries but my friend said she tasted them distinctly and the drink was her favorite of the evening.

As we had another bar on our tour we left, but we could easily have stayed the rest of the evening. Instead we heartily recommended it to a group of people outside who had always wondered what the On Air sign meant, but never investigated further. I hope they did

The Barking Dog
The heart of Nørrebro is Sankt Hans Torv, a square with lot's of bars, cafes and restaurant who all have outdoor service during the summer time. The Barking Dog is in a quiet side street of this square. It's another basement bar and it's a quiet eclectic space. Over all very warm and welcoming.

Only available table when we arrived was a tall one with tall rickety chairs, but fortunately half way through our first cocktail a table in a small nook became available and we moved.

I started out with the house whiskey sour which was a very nice middle of the road drink, my friend had a Negroni-interpertation that was really nice and served over clear ice, as it was very light in color. That was a cool touch.

My only teeny little complaint is about the absence of cocktail napkins. As all drinks seem to be very well chilled with the attention to ice, pretty soon the table and we became wet. But it's nothing major and we didn't even bother to go and ask for some.

The final drink of the night was a Rum Ting - served in a lovely glass, in fact the stemware at The Barking Dog was the nicest of the evening. I likes this trendy cocktail - but didn't bother to find out if they have actually sourced the Ting soda in Copenhagen or used fresh juice and soda.

May 24, 2012

Strawberry Daiquiri


Pretty soon I will have to rename my blog Gin and Rum Hound. But the weather in Denmark at the moment is just perfect for iced rum drinks.

The Strawberry Daiquiri holds a special place in my heart. 35 years ago when I was an exchange student in the suburbs of Seattle the elder sister in the family I lived with came home for a weekend and for some reason she, her three sisters and I had a whole evening to ourselves.

As the cool college student she was, she and one of the sisters somehow in spite of being underaged sourced the stuff for Strawberry Daiquiris.

We felt very grown up, as we sipped them and made spaghetti with garlic bread and swore the youngest to secrecy.

I don't have any blood sisters but over Strawberry Daiquiri they became exactly that and this summer I'm meeting two of them in New York where I'm in charge of finding the good bars ;)

So to work - and just out of curiosity I checked in my cocktail books, not a single one of them lists this marvel:
  • 6 cl white rum
  • 2 cl lime juice
  • 4 strawberries 
  • 1 cl orange Curacao
Start by smashing the strawberries in the lime juice and the Curacao at the bottom of a nice glass. Fill it with crushed ice and the rum and stir to cool and mix. Garnish with a strawberry.

May 16, 2012

Mai Tai

I can feel my hands slightly shaking as I start to write this.

One reason is probably that I just tasted my Mai Tai with a Wray and Nephew over proof float.

The other reason is awe and fear: The history of this legendary Tiki-cocktail is fraught with intrigue and feuding.

In other words it's easy to write something somebody will take in the wrong way, and then I fear a new generation of Tiki-lovers and -connaisseur are ready to cast spells that blows the top of my shaker the next time I fiddle with egg white or replace all the bottles in my liquor cabinet with no name brands.

For Mai Tai lore read this rant.

Putting on a brave face I type what I mixed:
  • 6 cl golden rum
  • 3 cl lime juice
  • 0.75 cl Orgeat
  • 0.75 cl Amaretto
  • 0.75 cl Orange Curacao
Pour everything in a shaker full of crushed ice including one half of the juiced limes. Shake well and pour into a low wide glass.

Garnish with a sprig of fresh mint and add a small float of either black rum or over proof rum so the first impression is rum and the almond and lime will materialize later.

May 12, 2012

Nettle Shoots

This year I somehow forgot to plant my garden, so right now rhubarb is the only thing I can harvest - strawberries, raspberries and currants will come later along with things I've probably forgotten about.

And as I cut the available rhubarbs the other day - there really wasn't any bounty to be had, at least not any I had planted, but I have plenty of stinging nettles and thought I would utilize those.

Sticking my hand in a plastic bag I picked a good handful of the young, top shoots from not very big nettles.

I poured about 2 dl of gin - Bombay was at hand - over them and let it stand for 45 minutes during which time the gin turned a lovely orange, almost Aperol color (as seen in the picture below).

When the cocktail hour rolled along I was ready to taste my stinging nettle gin in a creation I call Nettle Shoots:

  • 4,5 cl stinging nettle gin
  • 1,5 cl white creme de cacao
  • 1,5 cl yellow Chartreuse
  • 1,5 cl lemon juice
  • Dash of Bittermens Xocolatl Mole bitters
Using my new Lewis bag - thank you for saving med the $30-40 getting one shipped to Denmark would have cost me - I stirred my cocktail with lot's of ice and strained it into a cocktail coupe and garnished with a maraschino cherry.

If I may say so - that is one tasty cocktail.

May 5, 2012

Margarita

In honor of Cinco de Mayo I chose the Margarita as this weeks cocktail.

First time I had one was 25 years ago at a Mexican restaurant in Seattle. I was overwhelmed both by the size of the thing and the taste.

When I got back to Denmark I had packets of sour mix with me and dazzled my friends with this exotic drink using the cheapest tequila I could find and topping the whole thing of with Seven Up.

Haven't had one since. Read a bit about the history of this cocktail - enjoyed David Wondrich's explanation the most and took my inspiration from the recipe in the PDT book.
  • 3 cl mezcal
  • 3 cl tequila
  • 2 cl orange curacao
  • 2 cl lime juice
  • 0,75 cl agave sirup
Shake everything with ice and serve in glass with a salt rim and a piece of citrus for a garnish.

April 21, 2012

Crimson Slippers


The last 24 hours my home has smelled deliciously of slowly cooking/evaporating spirits. Camper English got me working on sugar for grown ups - in other words evaporated liqueurs.

I now have a small stash of Campari crystals, Creme de Violette crystals and Dolin Rouge crystals.

Next challenge was finding something to try them on, and I crossed internet wires with a stunning cocktail called Crimson Slippers.

Originally mixed by A.J. Rathbun, but tried and tested by people like Tiare of A Mountain of Crushed Ice and Doug Ford of Cold Glass.

Since a Japanese mixing glass just chose to move in with me, along with a lovely twisted bar spoon, I decided to stir my Crimson Slippers:
  • 6 cl dark rum - I used Appleton Estate V/X
  • 3 cl Campari
  • 1,5 cl Triple Sec - I used Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao Ancienne Methode
  • Dash of chocolate bitters
I stirred everything for several minutes enjoying my new gadgets and then strained into a cold cocktail coupe rimmed with orange juice and evaporated Campari. A slice of orange for a garnish.

This cocktail can easily be my summer favorite.

April 13, 2012

Trinidad Sour - and a cherry twist


Looking at it, the Trinidad Sour (r) reminds me a bit of a Blood and Sand - or of something out of a blood bank in a carefully labeled laboratory bag  - and I can't decide if I find that appealing or not.

I came across it at Cocktail Virgin Slut, and found further descriptions here and here.

It's a modern cocktail with a very classic look and a pretty surprising taste created by Guiseppe Gonzales who seems on the brink of opening a new bar in New York. (Another to add to my long must-visit-list)

It might just be, that  because I'm a Dane and we have a long tradition of strong, medicinal tasting bitters before breakfast even, that the idea of using more than a dash or two of Angostura bitters wasn't that mind blowing.

But as I like medicinal tastes I gave it a shot. I also wanted to try a small twist as I read that the Angostura lends the drink a cherry note:

My adopted measures - as I was going to mix two drinks was for the Trinidad Sour
  • 2 cl Angostura
  • 2 cl Orgeat
  • 3 cl lemon juice
  • 1 cl Rye Whiskey
Shaken over ice and strained into small, pretty cocktail glass.

For my twist I took out the whiskey and added cherry wine and brandy instead. Let's call it Trinidad Cherry Sour:
  • 2 cl Angostura
  • 2 cl Orgeat
  • 3 cl lemon juice
  • 0,5 cl cherry wine
  • 0,5 cl cognac or brandy
Shaken over ice and strained into another small, pretty cocktail glass.

The original has the more elegant and simple taste, but my cherry twist is not too bad - probably need to work on the balance between wine and brandy.

But over all I have to say, that both does not really register as medicinal on my taste buds, the overwhelming taste I get is Christmas and unfortunately it's not something I really go crazy about.

But now I'm that much wiser - and out of Angostura...

April 7, 2012

La Florida

A few days ago Tiare of A Mountain of Crushed Ice dazzled me with colored ice eggs - an idea she got a few Easters back from Camper English who resurrected it this year.

I knew I wanted to make some, but was also wondering what kind of cocktail would show them off.

This afternoon as I browsed through The PDT Cocktail Book I was intrigued by the mix of white creme de cacao and white rum i La Florida while I also imagined an egg would look good in it, so I set about my mixing.

And I have to say - as someone who enjoys The 20th Century cocktail  - La Florida was almost as good. And one of those Tiki-drinks that keeps sneaking up on me.

However to my palate gin adds an extra edge to the creme de cacao - but La Florida would make a wonderful hot summer evening cocktail.

  • 6 cl white rum
  • 1,5 cl creme de cacao
  • 1 cl dry vermouth
  • 2 cl lime juice
  • teaspoon grenadine *
  • Colored ice egg **

Pour first five ingredients into cocktail shaker over ice and shake well. Place colored ice egg in chilled cocktail coupé and strain cocktail into coupé.

*Grenadine - In saucepan boil twice as much juice from fresh pomegranate as sugar for 5-10 minutes. Let cool and then add dash of orange blossom water (or rose water) and dash of vodka. Bottle and keep in the fridge.

** Colored ice eggs - mix food coloring with water in as many colors as your want - remember blue and yellow makes green and blue and red makes lillac - then rinse and test inflate the appropriate number of balloons. Using a funnel pour colored water into balloons and suspend them from stick across freezer drawer. Wait at least three hours. Rinse eggs as you free them from balloon to minimize risk of rubber taste in cocktails. The process looks like this:

April 4, 2012

Brandy Crusta

This cocktail reminded me, how much in awe I am of the skills of professional bartenders.

It's not really difficult to mix a nice cocktail if you follow a recipe and have the right ingredients.

What sets the professional apart is doing it quickly and repeatedly.

Between cutting the long lemon peel and making the sugar rim on this cocktail any patron would have left my bar and I hadn't even gotten around to start shaking.

A barmanager in Copenhagen told me that 2012 just might be the year of the brandy - or cognac - based cocktail, I believe he is right.

This one really has a lovely balance and is amazingly refreshing for a drink that full of booze.

And did I mention, it's also very old? David Wondrich tells the story better than I ever could:
  • 6 cl cognac
  • 0,5 cl orange curacao
  • 0,5 cl Maraschino
  • 2 dashes Angostura bitters
  • 1 cl freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • fine sugar
  • peel of a whole lemon
  • a little more lemon juice
Start by cutting the peel. I decided it would be better to cut a little deep and then trim rather than risking break stride mid ways. The trimming can be done by laying the peel flat on cutting board and then cutting away from yourself with very sharp knife.

Next moisten the top 0,5 cl of the rim of a pretty glass - not too wide - with lemon juice and roll it in fine sugar.

Then you are ready to shake - or stir - as you please: In shaker over ice pour lemon juice, Maraschino, orange curacao and brandy. Shake and stir until cold, then strain into the sugar rimmed glass where you have placed one big, slow melting ice cube, add the two dashes of Angostura bitters  and finally place lemon peel at the top of the glass so that it sticks up.

Be careful when you drink ;)

April 3, 2012

Salon 39

In a quiet corner of Frederiksberg - the slightly upscale municipality completely surrounded by Copenhagen - close to the lakes you find a true gem: Salon 39.

One of those places where you feel right at home the moment you enter - a bar that manages to be both ambitious and casual at the same time.

My friend and I had visited a few times before, but on this visit we wanted to check out the breakfast club. A brilliant concept of food and drink.

On this Sunday morning we were practically the first guest through the door. We both ordered eggs Benedict and shared some fruit and a serving of blueberry pancakes with maple butter sauce.

We each got two beautifully poached eggs on good bread with some steamed spinach and Hollandaise Sauce..

A pretty amazing dish at only DDK 79. And I noticed that many came just for the food and skipped the cocktails.

I can understand that but have to say there is something really special about getting slightly tipsy on a Sunday Morning.

We went for the iconic breakfast cocktail, The Ramos Gin Fizz, and that challenged the bartender a bit my friend reported who had a full view of the bar.

Well it's not an easy drink to make, but we were satisfied with the drinks as they arrived in champagne flutes with a tall head of white foam. The did separate a bit before we had finished them 
but they tasted good. And in defense of Salon 39, this was on the morning of the first day of a cocktail event in Copenhagen, and it might just have been a new crew behind the bar.

The found their groove quickly - the Red Snappers vi ordered a little while later were perfect. A sister drink to Bloody Mary made with gin, orange juice along with tomato juice and spice.

This drink gave my friends sore throat some much needed relief - not a bad quality in a morning cocktail.

After our lazy, boozy breakfast we were ready for more and visited the Copenhagen Spirits and Cocktails event.

The picture is of an Ipanima - a quite perfumed cacacha based cocktail that Salon 39 mixed on their stand.